Here are some helpful hints from Balhannah Nurseries to help you achieve the best results in planting and growing your ornamental and fruit trees.
Where do I plant my tree?
Successful fruit growing in the garden begins with careful site selection, preparation and correct tree planting.
These steps influence the productivity of any tree. Soil type, drainage, shade and shelter should be considered.
These steps influence the productivity of any tree. Soil type, drainage, shade and shelter should be considered.
Sites that may become waterlogged during winter and spring should be avoided to prevent the development of root rot. Cool climate crops like apples, pears, plums and quinces tolerate wetter, cooler and more shady conditions. Cherries, however, don’t like it wet.
The tolerance of different tree species to these factors dictates where each species should be planted in the garden. Mediterranean fruits like almonds, apricots, figs, nectarines, and peaches prefer warm situations with plenty of sunshine and welldrained soils.
At Balhannah Nurseries our policy is to continually improve our products and service to guarantee your total satisfaction.
Buying your trees
Planting trees is an investment in your future.
Providing fresh fruit to eat, summer shade and deciduous trees then also allow light to penetrate in Winter as their leaves drop. Select medium-sized trees that are one year old from the bud.
Large trees are often depleted of much of their root system when taken from the nursery, and will not respond as well as the medium sized ‘yearling’.
Providing fresh fruit to eat, summer shade and deciduous trees then also allow light to penetrate in Winter as their leaves drop. Select medium-sized trees that are one year old from the bud.
Large trees are often depleted of much of their root system when taken from the nursery, and will not respond as well as the medium sized ‘yearling’.
When selecting varieties, consideration should be given to ripening dates and cross pollination requirements. These are listed beside each variety in this catalogue.
Your purchase of plants, shrubs and trees should be made from nurseries displaying the emblem of the Nursery & Garden Industry of South Australia, of which Balhannah Nurseries is proudly a member. This body promotes gardening tips and advice for public interest.
These associations help ensure a high quality product and professional advice.
These associations help ensure a high quality product and professional advice.
Tree Care
The planting season for bareroot fruit trees starts in early June and continues through August whereas potted trees are available
all throughout the year.
all throughout the year.
It is not necessary to plant immediately provided the roots are kept damp continuously. If planting is to be done within several days simply cover the roots with wet straw, soil or sawdust.
In the Adelaide Hills and the South-East planting is best carried out after the worst of winter is over as newly planted trees can easily become a victim of excessive wet conditions.
Planting
Dig a hole about one spade depth. Replace some of the topsoil so the bud union is just above ground level.
Trim any broken roots and spread them so that the strongest roots, and if possible the bud union, are facing the prevailing wind. Replace the remaining soil and mound slightly because the disturbed soil will gradually sink as it compacts.
Trim any broken roots and spread them so that the strongest roots, and if possible the bud union, are facing the prevailing wind. Replace the remaining soil and mound slightly because the disturbed soil will gradually sink as it compacts.
Generally, three or four metres is ideal if the trees are to be grown in a vase-shape. If room is restricted consider multiple planting, central leader, and espalier methods.
For good measure, sprinkle a small amount of slow release blood and bone fertiliser on top of the soil around the trunk, but be careful not to allow the tree roots or trunk to be in direct contact with the fertiliser as this may burn them.
It is difficult to advise on the distance required between trees when planting because much depends on available space, growth habit, etc.
It is difficult to advise on the distance required between trees when planting because much depends on available space, growth habit, etc.
Multiple planting
Plant three trees (as pictured above) in the same hole about 30cm apart.
Good results can be obtained by judicious pruning to prevent too much inter-weaving of the branches. Prune the three trees as if they were one, removing branches in the centre triangle. A dwarfing effect and earlier fruit will result because the trees are in competition with each other. Feed and water weaker trees to help compete with stronger varieties.
Good results can be obtained by judicious pruning to prevent too much inter-weaving of the branches. Prune the three trees as if they were one, removing branches in the centre triangle. A dwarfing effect and earlier fruit will result because the trees are in competition with each other. Feed and water weaker trees to help compete with stronger varieties.
Central leader
This method will also allow several trees to be planted close together.
Trees can be planted as close as 1.5 metres. Do not prune the leader. Contrary to what you may think, by not pruning the central leader the tree will not grow to an enormous size. In fact, it will be smaller with more fruit production at an earlier age. Tie the lateral growth out at about 60° to promote fruiting.
Trees can be planted as close as 1.5 metres. Do not prune the leader. Contrary to what you may think, by not pruning the central leader the tree will not grow to an enormous size. In fact, it will be smaller with more fruit production at an earlier age. Tie the lateral growth out at about 60° to promote fruiting.
Espalier
This method allows for the growing of fruit along a wall or a fence. It needs more attention, however, than conventional methods and therefore should only be attempted by the avid gardener.
It is not recommended to espalier along a metal fence as the reflected heat that is generated will scorch the tree (if only a metal fence is available erect a trellis about 30–40 cm away from the fence to allow air circulation). Training
wires should be placed before planting the trees, with the first wire being 45 cm above the ground. A four or five metre tree spacing is recommended.
Vertical support droppers may be required at intervals of about 90–100 cm. Pull two branches down that correspond to the height of the first wire and tie them along the wire. Cut the tree at the second wire and train the top three buds – the lower two horizontally along the second wire, freeing the top bud to continue its
It is not recommended to espalier along a metal fence as the reflected heat that is generated will scorch the tree (if only a metal fence is available erect a trellis about 30–40 cm away from the fence to allow air circulation). Training
wires should be placed before planting the trees, with the first wire being 45 cm above the ground. A four or five metre tree spacing is recommended.
Vertical support droppers may be required at intervals of about 90–100 cm. Pull two branches down that correspond to the height of the first wire and tie them along the wire. Cut the tree at the second wire and train the top three buds – the lower two horizontally along the second wire, freeing the top bud to continue its
growth upwards (making an extension of the main trunk). Other shoots should be removed. As these lower buds grow they are gently tied along the length of the wire while the top bud continues its growth upwards until it reaches the next horizontal wire.
The process is then repeated until the tree has reached the full height of the trellis. After about five years the tree will have covered the trellis,
The process is then repeated until the tree has reached the full height of the trellis. After about five years the tree will have covered the trellis,
and all that is needed now is for some light summer and winter pruning to remove some of the vertical growth. It is not a good idea to let the tree crop too much while it is being trained. It is best to allow the tree to cover the trellis as quickly as possible. With careful attention
and patience the espaliered tree will reward you with ample amounts of fruit, and may be used to hide otherwise unsightly areas.
and patience the espaliered tree will reward you with ample amounts of fruit, and may be used to hide otherwise unsightly areas.
Pruning your trees
A proportion of the root system is lost during the lifting process from the nursery bed.
To compensate and restore balance between the top growth and the root system, pruning is essential. The limbs of your tree should be shortened back about half to one-third of their total length, cutting always to an outside bud. This hard pruning is carried out only in this first year, and thereafter only minimal pruning is needed by most fruit trees. Balhannah Nurseries has been a leader in growing unheaded trees for nearly 100 years. This is vastly different from that of the 1920’s when most fruit trees were headed-off in the nursery. Later proven incorrect, professional orchardists worldwide now buy their trees unheaded. Refer to the Central Leader method for information on pruning unheaded fruit trees.
To compensate and restore balance between the top growth and the root system, pruning is essential. The limbs of your tree should be shortened back about half to one-third of their total length, cutting always to an outside bud. This hard pruning is carried out only in this first year, and thereafter only minimal pruning is needed by most fruit trees. Balhannah Nurseries has been a leader in growing unheaded trees for nearly 100 years. This is vastly different from that of the 1920’s when most fruit trees were headed-off in the nursery. Later proven incorrect, professional orchardists worldwide now buy their trees unheaded. Refer to the Central Leader method for information on pruning unheaded fruit trees.
When to fertilise
Fruit trees will generally receive enough nutrients from animal manure, but if this is unavailable a complete mineral mix or organic application will be adequate. Fertilise during spring and again in late summer.
About pollination
Apricots, peaches and nectarines don’t require pollination, and some plums like Satsuma appear to be sufficiently self-fertile for home garden purposes. Pollination requirements for other varieties are listed under their descriptions in this catalogue.
Fruit thinning
It is essential to remove some of the fruit within six weeks of blossoming. This prevents the tree from biennial cropping, and also produces better quality fruit. Large clusters of three or four fruits should be reduced to singles.
Summer care
The main consideration is to ensure the trees have ample water to encourage deep rooting.
Deep soaking less frequently will yield the best results A dish-shaped trough or trench well dug around the tree about two-thirds of a metre in diameter and filled with mulch will stop the summer weeds and greatly reduce the frequency of watering.
Summer pruning of some varieties will help suppress vigour, assisting the production of fruit buds. It will also reduce the need to prune during winter.
Deep soaking less frequently will yield the best results A dish-shaped trough or trench well dug around the tree about two-thirds of a metre in diameter and filled with mulch will stop the summer weeds and greatly reduce the frequency of watering.
Summer pruning of some varieties will help suppress vigour, assisting the production of fruit buds. It will also reduce the need to prune during winter.
Picking your fruit
Fruit is generally ready for picking when the background colour turns from dark green to pale green to yellow.
As the fruit ripens it will break away from the stem more easily. Care should be taken when picking the fruit as many varieties bruise easily and will then be unsuitable for storage. Do not squeeze the fruit with your fingers. Fruit that is to be stored for some time should be picked before it ripens. Do not pick the fruit too early as it will tend to shrivel without ripening properly.
As the fruit ripens it will break away from the stem more easily. Care should be taken when picking the fruit as many varieties bruise easily and will then be unsuitable for storage. Do not squeeze the fruit with your fingers. Fruit that is to be stored for some time should be picked before it ripens. Do not pick the fruit too early as it will tend to shrivel without ripening properly.
Storing your fruit
Fruit can be kept in the refrigerator from several weeks to months depending on the variety.
Fruit should be mature, but not over-ripe if storing for a length of time. The ideal temperature is 1–2° C, but fridge temperature is acceptable. Wrap the fruit in ventilated poly bags so the moisture is retained inside the bag. Do not store damaged or bruised fruit for a long time as it will break down rapidly.
Fruit should be mature, but not over-ripe if storing for a length of time. The ideal temperature is 1–2° C, but fridge temperature is acceptable. Wrap the fruit in ventilated poly bags so the moisture is retained inside the bag. Do not store damaged or bruised fruit for a long time as it will break down rapidly.
The chill factor
This is determined by the number of hours below 10° C during the dormancy period.
This period of time is required to initiate strong fruit development, and varies between fruit varieties. Poor and prolonged flowering, along with uncharacteristically shaped fruit, are common problems where insufficient chilling has been achieved.
This period of time is required to initiate strong fruit development, and varies between fruit varieties. Poor and prolonged flowering, along with uncharacteristically shaped fruit, are common problems where insufficient chilling has been achieved.
For more information
For additional information relating to cultural practices and problems growing trees, home gardeners may also contact:
Rare Fruit Society SA Inc.
Tel: (08) 8252 3929 or
www.rarefruit-sa.org.au
Dr Jen Gardener
(Waite Institute)
Tel: (08) 8303 7405
Tree Net Association
Tel: (08) 8303 7078
Rare Fruit Society SA Inc.
Tel: (08) 8252 3929 or
www.rarefruit-sa.org.au
Dr Jen Gardener
(Waite Institute)
Tel: (08) 8303 7405
Tree Net Association
Tel: (08) 8303 7078
Home gardeners may also check the following website:
www.treesaregood.com
Recommended local gardening radio programmes include:
891 ABC Adelaide
Jon Lamb - Saturdays
Malcolm Campbell - Sundays
1395 5AA Adelaide
Michael Keelan - Saturdays & Sundays
www.treesaregood.com
Recommended local gardening radio programmes include:
891 ABC Adelaide
Jon Lamb - Saturdays
Malcolm Campbell - Sundays
1395 5AA Adelaide
Michael Keelan - Saturdays & Sundays